Upbeat pub makes its mark with fresh, festive food

Thursday, September 11, 2008 3:06 AM
By JON CHRISTENSEN

FOR THE COLUMBUS DISPATCH

Lost Shepherd, a new restaurant in Powell, is bustling and cheerful, with a publike atmosphere, a busy kitchen and a value-packed menu.

The house salad ($5) is a harmonious melange of chunks of carrot, peeled cucumber, onion, bacon and tomato, plus chopped romaine lettuce and a good house balsamic dressing.

The artichoke salad costs more ($8), and it should: The dish contains plenty of artichoke hearts, asparagus, shaved Parmesan and enough good-quality pastrami to make a sandwich.

The fire-roasted chicken ($9) is another amazing value, the two large pieces spit-browned on the outside yet absolutely moist on the inside (and without brining).

They sit on a mild, creamy risotto and are garnished with a fairly bold, salsalike tomato coulis.

Several large shrimp are coated with a slightly spicy cream-and-tomato sauce light enough to dress them and the accompanying fusilli pasta without covering the flavors. Large slices of sauteed zucchini are a welcome addition ($12).

Lightly roasted catfish receives a light application of a creamy sauce, is seasoned with lemon and dill and is served with a crisp-fried risotto cake made with sweet pepper ($12).

Three large scallops -- said to be marinated in limoncello -- receive a brief sauteing before being served with asparagus and a sweet-pepper sauce ($11).

Shaved beef is offered within a soft roll -- actually, two rolls -- with melted cheese. On the side is a small cruet of grain mustard and a large cruet of roasting juices ($9).

Lost Shepherd's house-made vanilla cheesecake ($4) is amazingly light; it sits on a vanilla cookie-crumb crust and is topped with even-lighter whipped cream and mascarpone. The chocolate version is just as light in texture ($4).

Also worth a try: a deconstructed tiramisu built on pound cake instead of ladyfingers ($4) and a large slice of lemon cake with a flavor that says "made here" ($4).

Story from http://www.columbusdispatch.com/live/content/weekender/stories/2008/09/11/9A_JON11.ART_ART_09-11-08_T8_LBB950E.html?sid=101

 
Kyle Robertson | DISPATCH

Scallops limoncello, served
with asparagus and a
sweet-pepper sauce


Kyle Robertson | DISPATCH

Tiramisu, built on pound cake